Shojin Ryori restaurant Daigo,Chef Daisuke Nomura Part2
- Shojin Ryori restaurant Daigo,Chef Daisuke Nomura
February 2023
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Kombu and Katsuo-bushi (shaved dried bonito fish) are the fundamental ingredients of Japanese Dashi stock. For Shojin-Ryori, the plant-based Japanese cuisine, Kombu, Kanpyo (dried gourd), soy-beans and dried Shiitake mushrooms are used instead.
Chef Daisuke Nomura, the owner of Shojin-Ryori restaurant Sougo in Tokyo says vegetable scraps like peels or tough stems are also great to use in Dashi and he doesn’t call them “scraps”.
There are a few ways to make vegetable Dashi.
1) Simmer the vegetables, or
2) Dehydrate the vegetables then simmer for 50 minutes, or
3) Roast them at 180c for 12 minutes then simmer for 50 minutes.
He then blends the Dashi with pure Kombu Dashi.
Each method or the seasonality of the ingredients results in different tastes. He avoids strong tasting or coloured vegetables such as aubergine peel, beets, burdock or celery. Spring onions, onions, chives and garlic are prohibited in Shojin-Ryori.
Because he doesn’t use dried fish, his Dashi is mild tasting but still full of Umami. It reduces the need for salt and brings out the best characters of the vegetables in the dish.
We’ll share his plant-based recipe next time!